Winter Rose aka HELLEBORE Tutorial: Cold Porcelain or Sugar (2019)


hello this is Christina Wallis and I
just have to confess that I’ve managed to totally fall in love with this
beautiful unassuming, no dry hard flower if it’s your first time on my channel I
upload tutorials on handmade flowers mostly out of cold porcelain and
occasionally out of sugar…I manage to do that almost every week so if it
sounds like your cup of tea do please subscribe and do please join our little
community here so the way I cut out each petal is I try
to keep the middle a little bit thicker because I am planning to wire all the
petals and obviously it goes thinner as you spread it outwards these petals are
very simple so you could freehand them. I, however, prefer to make little
cardboard cutouts just like so simply, because I find that I have more control
over them over the thickness and so on when it comes to larger shapes if you’ve been watching my other videos
you would probably know that sometimes This next step which is thinning of
edges, I do on the palm of my hand, however, when it comes to bigger and
thicker shapes I find that this is more reliable a way of doing it… now, that
liquid was water, and now we’re going to wire your petals and actually if you
just lick it (!) seeing that it’s non edible medium of cold porcelain were working
with… it’s going to cause offence to absolutely no one… …so as you can see I’m
bending it here because I am going to put this cut out in a very curved veiner ,
just this one… and so I don’t want the wire poking through cold porcelain and
sometimes it does now this is very important… the aligning stage… this veiner
is very pronounced and you’ll see why I’m using such a pronounced veiner later,
but also that means that you need to be particularly careful with aligning all
the parallels so that they don’t go across your petal instead of along how
they supposed to… all the veins and things… when you’re working with a larger Veiners,
make sure that you apply very even pressure across it… with rose petals it’s
not quite as important as with some others but it’s a good habit to get into, …
now here I’d forgotten to add either dust or petal base to the veiner, so I’m
trying to disattach it so it doesn’t tear or goes out of shape now my camera
wasn’t picking up the veins very well but you do need to have a good veiner for
this particular flower and if you planning to do it the way I have, and use
paints to kind of relay the texture or else you might want to paint the veins
and so on over over their petals if you don’t have a very pronounced veiner, so I’ve
chosen to go with a very detailed and elaborate middle for this Winter Rose. These come in all different shapes of middles
as well as petals so really is free for all, what combo you choose but I’ve decided
to go with them ‘Queen’ middle and subtler petals just for change really because
it’s loads of stuff otherwise too much.going on so back to the middle it’s not actually
very complicated you can cover it with water or glue and then start inserting
the little seeds just to your liking really, each way as long as
you like it I find that adding glue actually helps
because they don’t fall out them and obviously I will be keeping all this
flowers for a long time so yeah glue is a good idea and this is the shape that I
personally really really like I’ve tried different shapes and that’s the one I
settled on and now we’re going to make all the strands that go on on the sides
of our middle and obviously the idea here would be to try and make it look, as
if those strands were running throughout the whole middle, so here I’m adding a
little bit of water and just gluing batches of four or five or even
six …more or less the same the same kind of length… you could use you could use
just thread but I found that because this stamens are already hardened and
easy to manipulate into a shape, I decided to use them instead especially
that I don’t seem to be using all that many statements and they kind of just
sit around there… so this is the ideal shape you could choose down to your own
liking whether you like all this strands to go very very symmetrical… I wasn’t too
bothered about 100% symmetricity is quite um quite a sticky and tricky
process so so yeah depends how much time you have depends how incredibly tidy you
are with your flowers, which I’m not so I cut corners
here and yeah so when you put your main strands then you just use half strands
to fill out the gaps and then you cut all the excess from the bottom with
sharp scissors sorry of them seem to have deleted a bit where I’d cut it so
now it’s the time to put final touches to your little statement tops and so
just make sure you glue enough of them to hide all the ends of your thread and
have a nice finishing line and yeah the next step is adding color
clearly my dusts didn’t work at all on a thread, so I am going to go with my
favorite medium as of late , – paint, oil paint…
so initially I was just going to go with magenta but then it looked a little bit
on a fake side a little bit to jolly and un – natural so I’ve added a violet color
and that pretty much is the two colors that I’m using throughout this flower…
and I was always trying to keep colors simple if I could possibly help but it’s
easy to remember and generally less chance of getting your color too dirty
and as usual with colorings especially with that in deeper colors try to do the
layers from lighter to darker because I’ve been working with colors for a
little while now I turn to go bolder I have a feel for it not a natural feel… I
gained a feel for it, but if you’re just starting out try to go very easy on your
colors and then layer by layer add deeper colors with oil paints it’s
particularly important as they’re harder to remove especially hard to remove from
a thread… perhaps easier from the actual cold porcelain when it’s dry
so here was my green I went all the way up to the base of where the little seeds
begin and actually on a hindsight, it doesn’t seem to be such a great idea…
I would leave a little bit of a wite space… to just kind of add
three-dimensional feel to it basically didn’t work yeah that idea didn’t work
but for the future now I would know and it would become a little little
attribute to my flower skills… and here I’m using white paint semi dry brush
just to add a little bit of a highlight to the seedy top of my flower middle and
pretty much you could use this technique to add highlights to many different
flowers and many different textures… So once the highlight is in place we’re
going to compare the middle to the petals just to see that the sizing is
all good and it looks fine and also as you can see the petals are of slightly
cool green shade and the middle is a very warm shade so the reason for that
is that I had some really warm yellow shade of green to use up and I didn’t
want it to go waste so we’re going to try to make marry
up together because cool shades and warm shades don’t always go well together but
if we kind of add some highlights using paint that might work quite nicely and
so… this is I’m just using little stamens any little statements you could find…
these particular ones are the ones I purchased from the Old Bakery so they
are Japanese nice quality stamens and I’m just shaping them too to give them
slightly more natural shape and this is a very thick glue which would hopefully
help me to stick those little individual stamens much easier and quicker… it’s
quite fiddly and tricky actually… well not that tricky but certainly fiddly for those of you who really like to
follow botanical correctness to a T, just want to point out that this is… I’m
kind of taking a bit of artistic license to it and the auteur statements, for all I
know… they not any bigger than the statements inside I mean I’m sure
somewhere in nature it might be possible but here I just like to look of it I
like the…, I like the… kind of the contrast of slightly bigger and smaller
stamens and we’re going to make the very characteristic for for winter rose
little… what shall I call them… they’re like elephant trunks aren’t they… and this
is all tool it’s a very good tool to use with cold porcelain stuff it’s not
available in UK you could get hold of one of them from Etsy… I also provide
them for my students readily for sale but um yeah you could just try and use
toothpick or find something in your household that would do the job
perfectly, and so the smaller the ends of the metal tool are the smaller your
little elephant trunks are going to be… but um for my flower I want to keep them
quite large and quite disorderly I don’t want them looking too neat I mean they
could be a little bit neater, but I don’t want them to look neat I
want them to look quite disorderly and quite unintentional so if you want them
neater make sure that your clay is very very fresh and you work reasonably fast
and also spin all the inside very very carefully basically take a longer time
with with each of these little shapes and you you know be good… good to go …so just a quick note that little pot in
the background is Petal Base and I was dipping my metal stick in it to stop it
from sticking and someone told me that someone told them that Petal base it’s
not a good cream or base to use with cold porcelain, I have never heard of that and
I love using it at least until it goes old and crumbly… but if you know why you
can’t use it with cold porcelain please let me know I would be very interested
very interested to know now here we have a second layer as you could see in
between layers I wrapped my little Center in plastic because it’s easier to
to attach this parts together if they are not over dried and now we’re going
to start on petals yay petals petals petals the easiest bit of this flower,
finally! Petals are never never the easiest bit of a flower I find or at
least hardly ever but this one is middle heavy flower… what are the middle
heavy flowers do you know there’s some arguably, arguably… Peony sometimes and
also what else Peony peony I just can’t think peony and
also that weird one was millions of petals what is it.. you really can’t think,
I have a brain freeze… anyway so here I’m using the same two paints… good idea to
use the same pains throughout to really have some continuity… and yes I’m going
to tread very carefully and I’m going to have my middle very very subtle and
very very light …not much of a camera focus here sadly, very dry brush very very dry brush so
yeah I’m going to keep my middle very subtle because the center of my
winter rose is very flamboyant very detailed and
very very kind of bright… I I don’t want it to fight for attention
with inside petals so I’m going to keep inside petals very plain and very subtle
and very light and I’m going to do outside petals a little bit louder… so
yeah, I did play with the idea of really going to town with all the veins and
what-have-you inside as well but I’ve decided to not do that …because that
would be that would be counterproductive and so yeah outside again… if you want to
use this technique make sure you use good veiner, you know, a very good, pronounced veiner,
and keep your brush very flat some of you may have used this technique with
with dust and the good news is that this is much easier this technique is much
easier with paints than it is with dusts, because paints don’t get into all the
crevices quite as easily and also there tend to be a lot brighter than dust from
the word ‘go’, so really all the petals as you would be able to see in a minute
all my petals are not identical and I love it that way I wouldn’t want them to
be identical and yeah basically have some spares but it does look harder than
it actually is , so this is what we do and with this one we use semi
dry brush not fully dry brush okay don’t try to use dry brush because I don’t think
it’s going to work as well and it’s going to be less crisp a result and with
something like this you would need to have that spray that dries your your
petals ( paint drying spray ) …use about three or four layers of spray ( at least 10 min apart)
until you find that your fingers don’t have any paint residue on them anymore
and here we go that’s your your backs backs of your petals ..so before I start on a pigmentation of
my inside petals I’m going to add this little bit of a warm shade paint to the
inside to really just tie in the middle and the cooler shade of petals themselves
…this is acrylic paint and acrylic paint is brilliant for
little dots because it dries really quickly it stays put and it’s really
sharp lovely and durable over time and here I’m using toothpick to add this
pigment on inside of the petal and I picked up this tip from my student…. I was
using a very expensive very thin brush that wasn’t giving me as good a result
as this does because it was kind of dragging and occasionally living non
crisp dots so toothpick works beautifully for this… never seen anyone
use toothpicks before before my students suggested it … on what what a lovely
tip… I learn a lot from my students that much is true… so as you can see I
have that outer petal that’s already done …the idea was
to have them all the same but me being me I’ve kind of got sidetracked halfway
through and found a pattern that I preferred so as a end result they’re not
the same these two are more less the same but then I have a random one I mean
on outside I don’t want them to be the same but on an inside I wanted to follow
the same pattern… but then I got seduced by this more casual pattern on your
right and and now I’m going to show you this ball sack looking thing… I’m just
gonna throw it away I was trying to learn how to make poppy pods but
yeah, never got there, I got bored.. I’m just gonna show you very
quickly how to make that bass for the middle… so just take it in
the middle of the video I’m going to do that now and again to make sure that you
guys watch it all I don’t think I could explain how to do it, so just leave you to watch it and I am going to link up another video on how to
do these more detailed one separate video in the description this green ball should give you a size
reference each of these squares is one centimeter and this is to just give you
an idea of variation of my outside and inside petal pigmentation now I’m going
to assemble this flower and the first step here for me is to use floral tape
now you have to stretch it to activate the glue and then this could be quite
tricky covering each wire with the tape you need to try to do it neatly… it adds
to the thickness of the flower stem so it was something like I don’t have ranunculus, peony… what have you, it’s gonna add way too much thickness while peony
went into this you generally don’t wire but it was peony or something… multi
petals… but since we don’t have multi petals here it’s actually a good idea in
my opinion to use a little bit of tape because it makes this process of taping
everything together a lot easier. …following my principle to use the
thinnest wire I could get away with, I have used wire number 26 for this chunky
petals and as it goes it wasn’t quite thick enough so it made it a lot harder
to assemble since they’re a little bit floppy number 24 would have been ideal
maybe slightly harder to insert but ideal for this purpose so although I’ve
covered each little wire with flower tape making it less
sticky and easier to position around the center my petals are still quite hard to
to work with which is why we probably shows or maybe a dozen but yes for this
24 is a good one and I am not going to show you how to
cover this stem with cold porcelain to make it beautiful and sleek, the way
cold porcelain medium allows you to to have it with flowers I will link up a
row stem that are covered in the detail is a dedicated video or loads of my
videos have a info on how to cover the stems and this is it
I am going to probably add a stem and a little calyx here I’m not bothered by
showing you those you could just copy them by yourself and yeah thank you for
popping in to my channel I seem to be totally addicted to it still, so I’ll see you next
week hopefully bye bye for now

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